Gourmet Flyer An often-asked question is whether it is feasible (and maybe, even worthwhile) to do a day trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima from Osaka. The short answer is yes and yes, but you have to start your day early and your itinerary is probably limited to only the highlights of the two destinations. Another question is where to go first, and this is a bit trickier to answer.
First of all, most people go to the island to see the floating torii gate. But it may surprise you that it is not always “floating” – it only does during high tide. So, you probably want to arrive during high tide, which, as of my recent visit, happened during the morning. Of course, the times will vary, and you can check this website for the tide schedule on your date of visit. For the purpose of this article, I will just plan on going to the island first. If you happen to want to do Hiroshima first, you can just reverse the order of the itinerary and take the opposite directions of the ferries.
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Osaka To Miyajima
Your first step is to take the shinkansen from Shin Osaka Station to Hiroshima. The fastest Nozomi train takes about 80 minutes. This is probably the most straightforward part of your journey. After exiting the shinkansen follow signs to the JR gates and take the San-yo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station. This train departs from platform one and the trip takes about 30 minutes.
At the station follow signs to go downstairs and walk across a rather pretty tunnel which takes you to the JR Miyajima ferry terminal.
The ferry to the island is on the right-hand side. If you have a JR Pass or an IC card, you can head directly to the gate. Otherwise, you need to first get your tickets (¥200 one way for adults).
NOTE: If you plan on visiting the Peace Memorial Park, do NOT buy a roundtrip ticket as we will be taking a different ferry to the park. More on that later.
There are several ferries serving this route and the size of the ship depends on the time of the day as well as the season. During prime times in peak seasons, you’ll often find rather large ships. Most of them also carry cars in the lowest deck. As you approach the ferry, take the stairs on either side to get to the upper passenger decks.
Exploring Miyajima
Your first encounter with the floating torii is actually on the ferry – if you take one of those “Great Torii” departures between 09:10 and 16:10 which are highlighted in blue on the official schedule here. On these special routes the ferry takes you close to the torii gate before turning left to approach the pier. This is your best (and probably the only) chance to photograph the torii gate from the sea, which gives you a completely different perspective than seeing it from land.
Upon arrival at the pier, take a right and walk along the shore which will quickly take you to a small beach that offers spectacular views of the iconic Great Torii.
If you continue on the path, it will eventually take you to the Itsukushima Shrine which costs ¥300 to enter. Not only will you get the most direct view and a memorable picture, but the shrine itself is beautiful and worth visiting.
Pictured above is the most popular photo spot and is probably why most people pay ¥300 to enter the place. There will always be a line for photos there, so a little patience is needed.
If you decide to visit during the late afternoon to early evening hours, you’ll be rewarded with a spectacular view near sunset on a clear day.
The Omotesandō Shopping Street (map) is a great place to grab lunch before heading back to the mainland. The two most popular local delicacies here are oysters and okonomiyaki – a savory pancake or crepe like dish typically cooked or served on a hot plate and topped with a variety of meat, seafood, and other ingredients.
Beer lovers will be delighted to know that there is a brewery serving local craft beers near the middle section of the street. If you need to buy some souvenirs, this is also a great opportunity.
Miyajima to Hiroshima
To save time I recommend taking the Aqua Net ferry which goes directly to the Peace Memorial Park. However, note that this is a very small ferry with limited schedules, so seats sell out very quickly. If you decide to take this ferry to go to the Peace Memorial Park, I highly recommend that you purchase your return tickets as soon as you arrive on the island. You can find directions to this ferry’s ticket office and its pier here.
If you are unable to get tickets (or if you just prefer taking the cheaper JR ferry) then simply return to the train station and take the number 2 or 6 streetcar (tram) and get off at the Atomic Bomb Dome. But note that this journey is much longer and probably not preferable for a day trip from Osaka.
Exploring Hiroshima
The highlights of your day trip to Hiroshima will be centered around the Peace Memorial Park and there are several components to it. The Park itself is just gorgeous for a relaxing and scenic stroll. If you are lucky enough to be there during cherry blossom season, the blooming Sakura along the river makes the atmosphere even more mesmerizing. In fact, this is a very popular site for hanami, or cherry blossom picnics.
The Peace Memorial Museum is without a doubt the centerpiece of the park and is a must-visit. It documents – quite graphically at times – the horror of the atomic bombing and its aftermath. While there are many perspectives of the Second World War, the museum tells the story from the eyes of the Japanese and exposes the inhumane nature of atomic weapons.
While there are many real-life accounts among the numerous exhibits on display, the story of a young girl named Sedako Sasaki was particularly uplifting and touches the hearts of all. After being exposed to the atomic bomb at the age of two, she miraculously survived with no apparent injuries and became a healthy and active child in school.
However, she later developed leukemia – widely believed to be a result of the radiation from the atomic bomb – and died at the age of twelve. Even at her young age, she spent her final days wishing the world a more peaceful place. Sedako Sasaki inspired the building of the Children’s Peace Monument which carries an inscription that reads: “This is our cry. This is our prayer. Peace in the world.”
As you stroll along the park you will discover other monuments, including the Cenotaph for A-bomb Victims, the Peace Bell, and the Flame of Peace that has been lit continuously since 1966.
The Atomic Bomb Dome is the only original structure left standing after the bombing. While every building in the area was completely demolished into rubbles, the dome survived because the bomb exploded directly above it, sending vertical forces downward along its earthquake-resistant walls, thus allowing it to remain standing.
It is purposely left in its ruined and skeletal form as a stark and powerful reminder of the destruction done to mankind as well as a symbol of hope and peace.
Our last stop for the day is the Hondori Shopping Street (map) which is directly across the street from the pier where you arrived from Miyajima if you took the Aqua Net ferry that I recommend. The first restaurant that you’ll see, which typically has a long line waiting for tables, serves excellent okonomiyaki which is one of the city’s specialties. There are also many other shopping and dining options along the way.
If you are in the mood for ramen, one of the best in Japan is only steps away. Ichiran’s ramen, characterized by its signature red blob of secret chili oil, is famous for its rich and flavorful broth that is enhanced by a nice kick of heat. You can customize your bowl including the softness/chewiness of the noodles and the level of heat and spiciness.
To conclude your day trip, take the streetcar (tram) to Hiroshima Station and catch the next shinkansen back to Osaka. You can either take the number 1 tram from the Hondori stop that is just a short walk away or go back to the Atomic Bomb Dome and take the number 2 or 6 trams from the stop across the street. If you need help, refer to the streetcar map here.
